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This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to Paris
Paris never ceases to surprise me. With the art and culinary scene at its forefront, it is a city brimming with different cultures and talents — and its venues reflect its many sides, from the grand to the intimate.
Restaurants
Origines
6 Rue de Ponthieu, 75008 Paris
Chef Julien Boscus deserves to be more well-known. His authentic cuisine highlights seasonal and local produce in every dish, with a menu that celebrates the French terroir. I love this place because it’s warm and welcoming. Julien allows his ingredients to do the talking, treating them without fuss or frills so that they shine through on the plate thanks to his accurate and precise cooking. You can choose the tasting menu or opt for à la carte, but either way you will enjoy the finest vegetables, fish and meat and some unforgettable dishes. Website; Directions
Zen
8 Rue de L’Échelle, 75001 Paris
A small Japanese restaurant near Opéra, Zen offers excellent sushi at great value. This is invaluable in Paris, where it’s hard to find an approachable price range for sushi, with many restaurants veering to the expensive or high-end. I used to go here a lot with my family — it’s a simple place that doesn’t look like much, but don’t let the appearance deceive you. Everything is done properly, according to the rules of the art of Japanese sushi. It’s a perfect spot for a quick lunch or to linger a while in the evening. Website; Directions
Mallory Gabsi
28 Rue des Acacias, 75017 Paris
Mallory is a talented young chef whose creative cuisine I discovered some time ago. He has this enthusiastic energy and inventiveness that I find very exciting, and I love the boldness in his ingredient and flavour combinations and the personality he puts into his dishes. He’s an artistic person and has this ability to take you into his world, with humility. The restaurant is beautiful, with an open kitchen allowing diners to watch the chefs at work. You can go there for a special occasion or just for pleasure. For my part, I continue to follow Mallory’s trajectory with great interest. Website; Directions
Brutos
5 Rue du Géneral Renault, 75011 Paris
The restaurant overlooks a pretty pedestrian square in the trendy 11th arrondissement. You can dine on the terrace in fine weather or enjoy the cosy, candlelit dining room. Brazilian chef Lucas Baur de Campos specialises in grilled meats, though the fish and vegetables are also always excellent. When I can, I like to go on Sundays for the spectacular roast chicken, which comes with a delicious garlic, lemon and herb sauce, fries and a spicy mayonnaise. Brutos is also very much about the produce they use, packaged with a cooler, more relaxed vibe. Website; Directions
Maison Ruggieri
11 Rue Treilhard, 75008 Paris
I know chef Martino Ruggieri well, having worked with him at one of my restaurants for several years (the Pavillon Ledoyen’s three-star restaurant, Alléno Paris). His rigour, creativity and hard work earned him his second Michelin star this year. Martino attaches great importance to sustainability and takes responsible actions to limit food waste, notably by composting all the waste generated by the restaurant. His menu highlights the finest-quality seasonal produce and local ingredients on every plate. It is a wonderful place to go for a celebratory occasion. Website; Directions
Food and drink shops
Cave Vino Sapiens
145 Rue Saint-Dominique, 75007 Paris
Vino Sapiens is owned by a Maître-Caviste (master wine merchant) — there are only 30 in France. They have access to wines used by restaurateurs, and this enables them to offer hard-to-find bottles at affordable prices, which is a real rarity. They also have a fine selection of Italian wines, and an impressive knowledge of the small winemakers across France — it’s the perfect spot to pick up a memento from your time in Paris. Website; Directions
Les Viandes du Champ de Mars
122 Rue Saint-Dominique, 75007 Paris
I adore Les Viandes du Champ de Mars. It’s an old-fashioned butcher’s, with owner Jean-Marie Boedec offering a remarkable selection of meats. He chooses them himself and ages and matures them just right. Every cut is prepared in front of you with great care and skill, and it’s all excellent quality. Website; Directions
Chambelland
43 rue Brochant, 75017 Paris and 14 rue Ternaux, 75011 Paris
This bakery with two sites in Paris has revolutionised the gluten-free approach with its organic breads. With their own mill, the two founders work on breads fermented with rice sourdough and made with rice and sorghum flours. They have a great range of breads and pastries with amazing tastes and textures, and you can also buy bags of their excellent flour too. Website; Directions
Galleries and museums
Galerie Scène Ouverte
13 Rue Bonaparte, 75006 Paris
Bringing together beautiful pieces from a selection of contemporary artists, Scène Ouverte is a brilliant gallery where you can see the best in ceramics and furniture design. Laurence Bonnel, who founded it and curates the works, presents unique and limited-edition pieces that bridge the gap between contemporary creation and the demand for absolute craftsmanship. The gallery has a wonderful atmosphere and is close to the banks of the Seine and near the Jardin du Luxembourg. Website; Directions
Mennour
47 rue Saint-André-des-Arts and 5 & 6 Rue du Pont de Lodi, 75006 Paris, and 28 avenue Matignon, 75008 Paris
Spread over three locations in Paris, Kamel Mennour’s gallery holds several exhibitions a year to showcase new generations of international artists. From photos, videos, sculptures, drawings and paintings there is a diverse variety of installations to explore and it’s a lovely place to discover new talent that is relatively unknown in France. Website; Directions
Musée des Arts Décoratifs
107 Rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris
The Decorative Arts Museum has a rich collection highlighting the links between industry and culture, individual creation and mass production. I particularly loved the Cartier and Islamic Art exhibition (2021-22). Paris is a great place to keep an eye on the world, to discover new cultures and new arts, with a wealth of museums like this that offer windows into some of the most creative works on the planet. Website; Directions
Yannick Alléno holds 16 Michelin stars across 17 international restaurants, including Pavyllon London at the Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane
Tell us about your favourite restaurants, shops and galleries in Paris in the comments below. And follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter
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