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This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to Paris
Paris is the city where I grew up. I have lived in different neighbourhoods, but I have the strongest connection to the third arrondissement, the northern Marais, where I set up my first design studio. This area is full of secrets; true gems — artists, designers, stylists and restaurants — are often hidden behind somewhat confidential addresses.
Every morning, before starting my day at my studio, I pick up a coffee at Café Charlot, where I encounter some of the chic and diverse personalities of the neighbourhood. This place is a local institution; in spring and summer, the terrace teems with people, while during Fashion Week it becomes a de facto catwalk.
A beloved spot for lunch is Les Enfants du Marché, an upscale food stall in a covered market (the Marché des Enfants Rouges on Rue de Bretagne). This place brings together a variety of creatives — artists, stylists, designers, actors — as well as occasional passers-by, tourists and discerning food lovers. It is also a favourite of some of Paris’s most renowned chefs, such as Yannick Alléno and Alain Ducasse. The menu changes every day, depending on what top-quality produce looks the best in the market. I generally order several dishes to share with friends.
A short walk from here, near the Carreau du Temple, a multidisciplinary event space, it’s worth popping into The Broken Arm, a concept store with a cool and edgy selection of designer clothing for men and women. It’s the perfect spot to find unique fashion pieces.
For a shot of culture and inspiration, I often visit the exhibitions at one of my favourite contemporary-art museums: the Palais de Tokyo (closed until October). The curation is exceptional, and the building itself, a monumental structure from the 1930s, lends a uniqueness to the gallery experience, the Art Deco exterior contrasting with a bare, almost Brutalist interior. There are also two beautiful and lively restaurants inside. Monsieur Bleu, a stylish space designed by Joseph Dirand, offers classic French dishes, while Bambini, which is a more glam, theatrical setting, serves a menu of simple Italian cuisine.
About 10 minutes away from the museum, you’ll also find Girafe, a fine-dining restaurant that offers front-row views of the Eiffel Tower from its terrace, and La Suite Girafe, its ninth-floor café in the same building. It’s housed in a former apartment that boasts a panoramic outdoor space. I usually opt for the fish dishes here — gourmet seafood is their speciality.
Another favourite museum is the Bourse de Commerce, the former Chamber of Commerce that is now an exhibition space for the Pinault Collection. The building, renovated by the Japanese architect Tadao Ando, offers a magnificent immersion into François Pinault’s art collection. The French magnate and his curation team consistently discover unique pieces from contemporary masters as well as works from talented emerging artists.
After visiting the collection, I’ll often dine across the street at Gallopin, a Parisian institution since 1876 where tradition meets contemporary cool. With its Belle Époque decor, it offers a classic bistro dining experience with a lively atmosphere, trendy crowd and an effortlessly chic Parisian vibe.
At the end of the day, to experience Parisian nightlife, I recommend heading to Le Silencio club (and its surreal interior designed by David Lynch). Here you’ll find creative types ranging from people in the movie industry to music, design and art. I would also recommend trying to get into Le Colonia on Wednesday night, which is all about ambience and crowd. Small and discreet (it reminds me of Le Baron in the 2000s), to me it encapsulates Paris after dark.
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