This article is part of a guide to Tokyo from FT Globetrotter and a collaboration with Nikkei Asia
Like any great megalopolis, Tokyo offers endless options for cultural enrichment, intellectual fulfilment or mindless entertainment. But all play and no work will leave most of us low on yen, or anxious about that unfinished manuscript or expanding to-do list. And in this new era of telecommuting and always-on work culture, business can beckon at any moment.
So where should one go in Japan’s capital to get a job done — and, ideally, enjoy doing it?
Vast networks of café chains ensure you’re never far from a coffee and a place to rest your laptop. Likewise, the city is increasingly dotted with “co-working” spaces where you’ll find WiFi, power outlets and other conveniences, but often hefty fees as well.
Thankfully, there are also work-friendly spots that offer something extra — from “avatar robots” and exercise machines to stellar views — that can make clearing out the inbox feel like less of a chore. Here are six fun places to work while at play in Tokyo.
Little Darling Coffee Roasters
1-12-32 Minamiaoyama, Minato, Tokyo 107-0062
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Good for: Greenery, and long stays hidden behind it
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Not so good for: Music and high ceilings make it noisy at times
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Work-friendly factors: WiFi with email registration, limited power outlets
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FYI: Although Little Darling feels isolated, it’s only a short walk from two of the city’s best galleries and design spaces, the National Art Center and 21_21 Design Sight
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Opening times: Daily, 10am-7pm
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Website; Directions
In a city as dense as Tokyo, a little space can go a long way towards refreshing the mind. This roomy roastery and café is housed in a repurposed warehouse across the road from Aoyama Cemetery, known for its springtime cherry blossoms.
The complex includes an (artificial) lawn periodically used for events and a shop that sells (real) flowers and plants. Plentiful greenery is a feature inside the café as well. And thanks to the spacious interior, it is relatively easy to find a seat even on weekends. You can also grab one of the lounge chairs outside, although that might be a little too relaxing.
The menu offers plenty of fuel for checking off tasks, including burgers, scones and a couple of salad options. But the big red block letters on the wall outside leave little doubt what most come for: coffee.
Megutama
3-2-7 Higashi, Shibuya, Tokyo 150-0011
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Good for: Cosy country-kitchen feel and satisfying meals
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Not so good for: Procrastinators, as 5,000 sources of inspiration might turn into 5,000 reasons not to work
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Work-friendly factors: WiFi with password, some power outlets
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FYI: Use the provided placemarks to return books where you found them
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Opening times: Tuesday-Sunday, noon-10pm (hours sometimes change for events, so check online first)
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Website; Directions
If you’re in need of creative inspiration, Megutama offers around 5,000 sources of it. That is the estimated number of photography books lining the walls of this diner in the Ebisu neighbourhood, a 15-minute walk from Shibuya station.
Kotaro Iizawa, a noted photography critic and historian, has amassed the collection over nearly 40 years and placed it on display for customers to enjoy. Acclaimed artists like Daido Moriyama and Vivian Maier share the shelves with fresh names such as Mari Katayama and Tokyo Rumando, making Megutama an invaluable research resource for those in the art business as well.
If hard work makes you hungry, be sure to try the Japanese home-cooked dishes prepared in the open kitchen, run by owner Megumiko Okado. The ever-changing menu includes set meals of seasonal meat or fish dishes with miso soup, rice and pickles, as well as standards such as tuna bowls and fried pork cutlets. Just be extra careful when handling the books: some of the rare editions in Iizawa’s collection are very valuable.
Fuglen Asakusa
2-6-15 Asakusa, Taito, Tokyo 111-0032
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Good for: Early-risers
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Not so good for: Those seeking a truly local experience
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Work-friendly factors: WiFi with password, limited power outlets
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FYI: If you crave something stronger, they serve cocktails too
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Opening times: Monday–Thursday, 8am–9pm; Friday–Sunday, 8am–11pm
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Website; Directions
The historic Asakusa district on the banks of the Sumida river is known for the Senso-ji Buddhist temple, souvenir shops, food stalls and hordes of tourists seeking a glimpse of the “real Japan” of yore. Tucked away on a humble backstreet away from the bustle, the Fuglen café promises a taste of the real Norway, at least.
Transplanted from Oslo, Fuglen’s vintage Nordic decor blends easily with its retro Japanese surroundings. Liberal use of wood panelling, subdued warm lighting and a variety of seating — from bar stools to sofas and a range of Scandinavian chairs spread across two levels — make it one of the more comfortable places to settle in for some heavy typing with a coffee and a side of Norwegian waffles.
A sign asks customers not to stay for more than two hours when it’s busy. But as the blue light of evening descended on Tokyo one recent Saturday, there were plenty of empty seats, while customers peering into screens clearly felt no pressure to leave.
Dawn Avatar Robot Café
3-8-3 Nihonbashi-Honcho, Chuo, Tokyo 103-0023
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Good for: Wheelchair-users as well as people with special eating requirements, as food can be chopped or blended
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Not so good for: A bit pricey, with a slightly complicated seating system
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Work-friendly factors: WiFi with password; power outlets by the café counter seats
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FYI: Aside from the free café seats, other areas are subject to an entrance fee. To be served by an avatar in the diner, it’s necessary to book online in advance (generally at least two people, although they’re accepting solo diners in January). Cashless payments only
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Opening times: Friday–Wednesday, 11am–7pm
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Website; Directions
Technology enables a human touch at this unusual café. Upon walking in, you are greeted by human staff and what appear to be robots. But forget today’s AI fever: the white mechanical figures with gleaming eyes are operated remotely by people with disabilities.
While Dawn Avatar Robot Café is located in Tokyo’s Nihonbashi business district, the employees are spread out across Japan and even overseas. Each one has a physical or other reason they cannot leave their homes or hospital rooms. Through their “avatars”, called OriHime, they take orders, deliver food and engage in friendly chit-chat. Some speak English. According to OryLab Inc, which runs the café, the goal is to use technology to achieve a new form of social participation.
Divided into a diner, bar, a “tele-barista” corner and a café counter, the shop offers different seating areas and experiences. For those who just want to have coffee and focus on work, we recommend the café seats, from where you can observe interactions between the clientele and the futuristic staff.
Tsutaya Share Lounge
Shibuya Scramble Square, 11th floor, 2-24-12 Shibuya, Shibuya, Tokyo 150-0002
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Good for: Unlimited snacks and drinks
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Not so good for: The entry fee may feel steep
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Work-friendly factors: WiFi; power outlets at every seat
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FYI: They’ll give you a lanyard on which you’ll find the WiFi password
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Opening times: Daily, 10am–11pm
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Website; Directions
High above the crowds scurrying across Shibuya’s famous “Scramble Crossing”, this lounge inside a bookstore is specifically designed for work. As well as internet access and power outlets at every seat, customers can borrow monitors and phone chargers, print and copy documents, and book a meeting space with a whiteboard.
Perhaps the biggest draw, apart from the stunning city views, are the free-flowing beverages and snacks. Coffee and soft drinks, nuts, candy, breads and pastries are all on offer. Alcohol is available as well, for a small extra charge.
Unlike at a typical café, you pay for time. Plans start at ¥1,650 ($11/£9) for the first hour and ¥660 ($4.50/£3.50) for every additional 30 minutes. Alternatively, you can camp out for a whole day for ¥4,510 ($30/£25). Other Share Lounges — there are about two dozen scattered across Tokyo and the rest of the country — charge varying fees.
Flux Café
reload, Building D 2-7, 3-19-20 Kitazawa, Setagaya, Tokyo 155-0031
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Good for: Fitness fanatics
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Not so good for: Irregular hours
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Work-friendly factors: WiFi; power outlets at every seat
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FYI: Opening days and times vary from month to month, so it’s best to check its Instagram account for the latest
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Website; Directions
The athletically inclined will appreciate Flux Café in the hip neighbourhood of Shimokitazawa, known for its vintage clothing stores and live-music bars. Two free-to-use exercise bicycles with small tabletops let you burn a few calories while firing off some emails. Alternatively, grab one of two stability balls to tighten those core muscles while sharpening a document. The idea, according to its website, is to promote a healthy lifestyle while demonstrating that a café does not have to be just a “place to enjoy tea and meals”. There are, however, regular seats as well, if you prefer not to mix work with a workout.
Flux Café is a sibling establishment to Flux Conditionings next door, a gym that offers a range of specialist training, such as posture improvement. The cafe’s wellness theme extends to the menu, which features a selection of protein beverages, light snacks and vegan sweets. Try the amazake Piña Colada — a non-alcoholic protein drink made from fermented rice.
Once you’ve reached your fitness and work goals, the shopping complex that houses Flux — called Reload — is worth a stroll as well. Opened in 2021, it is a sprawling cluster of whitewashed buildings that are home to a curated selection of unique stores, from eyewear to stationery and even a barber shop.
Where do you like to combine work and play in Tokyo? Tell us in the comments below
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