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Lasers have come a long way from the Barbarella-style space beams of the 1990s. These high-tech skin treatments use varying strengths of concentrated light beams to zap everything from wrinkles and rosacea to sunspots and acne scars, using intense heat to stimulate scar repair and trigger collagen production in pursuit of smoother, healthier-looking skin.
Treatments typically fall into two categories. On the gentler end of the scale are non-ablative lasers – wavelengths of 1,550, 1,927 and 1,440nm – that heat the deeper layers of the skin without damaging the surface. The more aggressive, ablative lasers such as CO2 (10,600nm), meanwhile, remove the skin’s outer layer. They can be effective at targeting wrinkles, but require more downtime following treatment: side effects include swelling, redness and temporary changes to skin colour.
When the UK removed non-surgical lasers from Care Quality Commission oversight in 2010, these powerful devices went from medical hands to almost anyone with a skin anatomy qualification. (In contrast, the US Food and Drug Administration keeps both medical and non-medical lasers under regulation.) As a result there was a surge in underqualified practitioners. Badly administered (or used too frequently) lasers can cause burns and pigmentation. Some studies, including one by the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, have found that ablative lasers can lead to loss of epidermal thickness. This is especially true when patients fail to leave enough time between treatments. A lot of the “skin thinning” stories stem from impatience.
Facialist Alexandra Soveral “cannot understand” the demand for anti-ageing laser treatments. “By removing the skin’s top layers, we are removing its first line of defence against UV damage, pollution, pathogens and dehydration,” she says, pointing to clients with deep-seated inflammation, hypersensitivity and deeper pigmentation as a result. “The irony is that the more laser treatments are done to achieve a younger appearance, the more the skin gets inflamed,” adds Soveral, who prefers to tackle wrinkles with natural formulas and sculpting massages. “We all know that inflammation is the number one cause of premature ageing.”
There are, however, numerous peer-reviewed studies that have deemed laser treatments to be “effective” tools in the field of skin rejuvenation. “Laser itself should not cause permanent or long-term thinning – only an injury or misuse would,” says Dr Asif Hussein, a consultant dermatologist and laser surgeon and senior clinical lecturer at Barts and The London Blizard Institute. “Fraxel, HALO, MOXI and Alma Hybrid stimulate new collagen formation rather than breaking it down. Even ablative lasers only thin the skin temporarily during healing. Within 28 to 60 days, the skin regenerates thicker and stronger, and recovery continues with each skin cycle.”
Hussein argues also that “resurfacing lasers can reduce the risk of non-melanoma skin cancer by repairing sun damage”. At his clinic in London, UltraClear Cold Ablative Laser Resurfacing (from £2,000 for the full face) is a treatment that targets photo-ageing, fine lines, scars and deep wrinkles. Multiple sessions are often recommended for the best results, with treatment gaps evaluated on a case-by-case basis.
I’ve had three deep ablative CO2 laser treatments over the past decade, spaced out every three years. My experience has been that while my skin looked like burnt toast for the first week and felt fragile and thin, within three months it started to become healthier, tighter and firmer. I’m in no rush to book my next session for another few years. But if you are keen to explore the treatment yourself, the key is choosing the right practitioner, technology and treatment plan. Look for a minimum National Vocational Qualification Level 4 laser and intense pulsed light certification or a licensed medical aesthetician. Avoid clinics that offer one-size-fits‑all lasers or “lunchtime” treatments; they’re using a low-level fluence, which won’t deliver meaningful results. You’ll know you’ve found a good practitioner if they pull out a variety of lasers, each with its own proprietary wavelength to treat specific conditions. Darker skin tones need melanin-safe lasers such as Nd:YAG, which my own Indo-Asian skin can handle. And always book a proper consultation or a patch test – your skin’s history matters more than a clinic’s Instagram.
After your treatment steer clear of retinoids, AHA/BHA acid toners and sun exposure for at least seven days, and make-up and workouts for at least 48 hours. Gently cleanse the skin daily, hydrate generously and apply SPF. Don’t touch or pick the face. Avoid exfoliating for a minimum of seven days, depending on the laser depth and type used, and always refer to your clinician’s advice. Treat the skin like it’s healing – because it is.
For those with milder concerns such as fine lines or pigmentation, the Alma Harmony laser is a great option. Dr Ahmed El Muntasar at The Aesthetics Doctor in London says “it works at varying depths to rejuvenate, resurface and refresh” with a mix of ablative and non-ablative lasers – intense pulsed light, Nd:YAG and fractional – in one system. El Muntasar explains he gets multilevel results “with Bio-Boosters like Clear Lift Pro to supercharge collagen or Clear Skin to treat acne for glowing skin with minimal downtime”. He recommends four sessions (from £450) every two to four weeks, with results lasting up to 18 months after the final treatment.
Another gentler option is Natura Bissé’s Youthful Firm and Lift treatment, now supercharged with LYMA’s Class One near-infrared laser technology. Available exclusively at The Dorchester Spa, the treatment blends low-level laser therapy with a balancing cranial massage to sculpt, plump and firm. The result is instantly lifted contours, softened expression lines and restored skin density.
Alternatively, at-home lasers are an increasingly efficacious option. Tria (£549.99) puts the power of a 1,440nm wavelength, 12J per pulse laser (half the level of some in-clinic treatments) in your hands, creating tiny microthermal zones to trigger collagen renewal and skin smoothing. Similarly, NIRA Pro (£569) is a 1,450nm non-ablative diode laser that, used for two to five minutes a day, heats the dermis to just under 46°C, triggering collagen production without harming the surface. The device has a large window to target the face, neck, chest and back of hands – perfect for the impatient beauty queen.
@adeelacrown
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