Footwear group On steps up push beyond trainers as clothing growth overtakes shoes

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On, the Swiss footwear group backed by tennis star Roger Federer, is accelerating a push beyond its signature sports shoes as growth in its clothing and accessories lines overtakes that of its core trainers business.

On’s co-founder Caspar Coppetti said apparel was now “definitely a standalone growth engine”, and that the New York-listed company wanted “to be a bigger part of our customers’ life”, rather than simply a brand associated with running or tennis shoes.

“The barrier between performance and lifestyle is artificial,” he said. “That’s not how consumers think any more.” The brand was now benefiting from a broader customer base, including younger shoppers who buy athletic gear as everyday clothing, he added.

The Zurich-based company, known for the distinctive “cloud” soles in its shoes, reported surging sales of apparel and accessories in the third quarter, up 87 per cent and 145 per cent respectively on a year earlier, against footwear growth of 21 per cent.

Founded in 2010, On has emerged as a challenger to sportswear’s dominant global brands such as Nike and Adidas, carving out a foothold through distinctive design and a focus on premium performance.

While apparel and accessories — a category that includes items from hats and socks to water bottles — remain much smaller revenue contributors than shoes, the gap in growth rates highlights the group’s widening focus beyond performance running into everyday wear.

Other sportswear groups including Lululemon and Nike have increasingly sought to position themselves as lifestyle brands, blurring the boundaries between technical performance and fashion.

Central to On’s strategy are its retail stores, where apparel accounts for 25 to 30 per cent of revenue, far higher than in wholesale channels. The company says it will open another 25 standalone stores in 2026, expanding its presence in regions including Asia and the Gulf.

Chief executive Martin Hoffmann said these “brand hubs” allowed On to “tell the apparel story” and present curated collections that reinforced the brand’s premium positioning.

The company expects a 34 per cent rise in net sales for 2025 to SFr2.98bn ($3.7bn).

Hoffmann said price rises introduced in July had not damped US demand, despite it being a market where retailers are offering lots of discounts, markdowns, sales and special offers to stimulate demand. “Our demand is extremely resilient across all age groups,” he said, noting strong gains among “younger, affluent teens”.

On’s expansion has been supported by high-profile collaborations. The group has had a partnership with fashion house Loewe since 2022 and recently worked with the brand to design a football-style sneaker.

A limited-edition collection with actor Zendaya sold out immediately, while releases with US brand Sky High Farm and Japanese streetwear label Beams target outdoor and consumers who want products that fit into their daily routine.

“For us, it’s really where we can connect in an authentic way with different communities,” Hoffmann said. “Not everyone is influenced by running.”

The company has already expanded into tennis, training and outdoor wear, but the executives declined to confirm which additional sports or categories might come next.

In 2025, On extended its technical partnership with the Swiss ski federation — covering training apparel and footwear for the nation’s winter sports teams — until 2034. The deal reinforces On’s presence in high-performance sport, although the company has said it does not intend to enter the ski equipment market.

“We like to have organic, authentic adoption before we engage,” Coppetti said. “We’re not sitting here looking at a spreadsheet of where else we could go.”

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