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Connections and symbolism are essential to Ruth Rogers, co-founder of the River Café in west London. Whether it is food or jewels, associations and significance are dear to her and what gives a piece value. “Generally, my jewels are not big, as I don’t like things that get in the way of giving somebody a hug,” says Rogers.
Rogers grew up in the 1960s in Woodstock, in upstate New York, during the era of peace and love, and “hung out with people who didn’t wear much jewellery”. Today, Rogers enjoys wearing a stylishly irreverent mix of pieces, each conveying a special meaning. The hippy vibe lives on in the string friendship bracelets made by her grandchildren she wears around her wrist.
Her eclectic collection and highly personal jewels were either gifts or bought with her late husband, architect Richard Rogers. No purchase was random; each was carefully chosen to mark a special occasion, whether joyous or sad, freighted with recollections of her husband, or an era, a place or a special friend. Buying jewels was a joint pleasure and Rogers says she and Richard “had the same kind of eyes” when choosing gems.
Rogers set up the River Café with Rose Gray in 1987 in the building that housed her husband’s architectural studio in Hammersmith, west London. From what was initially a work canteen, the River Café blossomed into one of London’s top restaurants.
Her workload today includes Ruthie’s Table 4 podcast, where she interviews friends and celebrities about their food memories.
Heart-shaped pendant
The heart-shaped Peace and Love pendant by designer Aurélie Bidermann was bought by the couple at Colette in Paris. Rogers is drawn to heart shapes and the peace sign reminds her of her Woodstock days and when jewels conveyed positive messages. The necklace links Rogers to her time in Le Marais in the 1970s while the Pompidou Centre, designed by her husband was being built.
Diamond pavé disc ring
The white gold diamond pavé ring was bought at Dover Street Market in London. Rogers sometimes wears it on her ring finger but says that “as a chef, rings have never been my thing”.
She adds: “When I met Richard in 1969, we didn’t think an engagement ring was necessary. I designed a wedding ring for Richard and me. I asked the guys in the model shop to make it out of bright pink Perspex with a big heart on it. Unfortunately, I lost it, and when we saw this ring many years later, we thought it could be a sort of wedding ring. I love circles, so it works for me.”
HStern Confetti multi-gemstone necklace
The multi-gemstone necklace recalls the couple’s love of Latin America. Richard had a commission in Colombia, and they travelled throughout the region. In Brazil, Rogers discovered the jewellery house HStern and has other Stern pieces, including by the architect Oscar Niemeyer. The couple visited Mexico every year for 30 years, and the necklace evokes the happy days they spent in these places.
Irene Neuwirth moonstone necklace
The moonstone necklace by Los Angeles designer Irene Neuwirth is one of Rogers’ favourites. She bought it at Barneys New York in the 1990s to celebrate her eldest son Roo’s graduation from Columbia University. Rogers loved going to Barneys every time she visited the city, with its contemporary approach to jewels and fashion. Temptation was rife, as the jewellery was displayed by the main entrance, where it was unavoidable.
Twenty-five years later, after several Neuwirth purchases, Rogers became friends with Neuwirth when the jeweller’s partner Phil Lord was working on a film in London. “When I met her at the River Café, I realised I had been buying her jewels for years,” says Rogers. Neuwirth gave her a beautiful heart-shaped pendant with a pink and green “watermelon” tourmaline that she treasures.
BO necklace
Rogers’ most prized possession is a chain with the crumb-sized gold letters “B” and “O”, which never leaves her neck. It was given to her by her daughter-in-law Bernie (who is married to Roo) on the death of her son Bo in October 2011 and was specially made by TenThousandThingsNYC.
Rogers became acquainted with TenThousandThingsNYC in the 1990s as Roo’s flat was next door to the jeweller, and over time she became friendly with the owners, David Rees and Ron Anderson. Rogers has a selection of their quirky and colourful jewels, and appreciates the offbeat aesthetics and the small size of the brand’s jewels. She has several Chiclet necklaces in different colours, and has given them to friends and each of her grandchildren.
Céline earrings
The silver and brass earrings are by Phoebe Philo, a close friend. They were a gift from the designer when she was working for Céline in 2012. Rogers wore Céline for many years and was very excited when Philo began designing jewels. “I love these earrings because they’re very long and come so far down your neck that they get lost in your hair,” says Rogers. “So even though they are big, they aren’t a statement. They’re very beautiful, very, very cool.”
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