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I was recommended Maria Bradford’s Sweet Salone by cookbook retail kingpin Eric Treuille at his Notting Hill shop, Books for Cooks. Drawing on the flavours of Sierra Leone, the book contains (among many pleasures) a thick, rich and spicy marinade recipe so exemplary that you will regret the summers you spent without it. The secret — as with many West African recipes, Bradford says — is peanut butter. At her newly opened restaurant in Sevenoaks, she uses the marinade on sea bass, but the cookbook version goes with chicken and is made to be served at a party. The recipe here will make twice as much as you need for this quantity of meat (or aubergine, which it also suits). It will keep in the fridge for a week or freeze well.
Maria Bradford’s Pepe Chicken
To serve four
For the west African pepper blend
For the Pepe marinade
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If you are making the pepper blend, toast all peppercorns in a dry pan over medium heat until fragrant. Allow to cool then grind in a spice grinder or pestle and mortar. Store in an airtight jar for up to three months.
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For the pepe marinade, put all the ingredients in the bowl of a food processor and blend until smooth and well combined.
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Transfer to a saucepan and cook on medium heat for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring from time to time to prevent sticking, until the marinade has reduced and thickened. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed. Let the marinade cool.
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Put the chicken thighs in a large glass or ceramic bowl, pour over half the marinade (the rest is yours to keep for next time) and massage it well into the chicken. Cover and set aside to marinate in the fridge for two to three hours or overnight.
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Preheat the oven to 200C.
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Arrange the chicken pieces in a single layer in a baking tin. Roast for 35 to 40 minutes, basting occasionally and turning once, until cooked through (they are ready when the juices run clear when pierced in the thickest part of the thigh with a skewer). If you are using skin-on chicken, start skin side down and flip them to crisp up.
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