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This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to Edinburgh
Runners can be a territorial bunch. When FT Globetrotter asked readers to share their favourite trails last year, one contributor argued that Edinburgh offers “the best run in the world”.
No doubt natives of other global cities would fiercely contest that claim. Yet it is true that Scotland’s capital city does offer plenty of ingredients to make up a pretty perfect run, whether you are seeking a quick 5k route before work, or a 20-mile weekend run out to neighbouring east Lothian.
In under an hour it is possible to go from running through the Unesco World Heritage sites of Edinburgh’s New and Old Towns (despite their respective names, both are historic) to scaling Arthur’s Seat, the extinct volcano that bursts with yellow gorse flowers in spring.
“Edinburgh has such varied routes within its small city boundary,” says Catriona Bruce, a former prosthetist, whose enthusiasm for running in the city led her to set up Blast Running, a running events company. Whether it is 360-degree views, canal paths, coastal trails or routes through historic built-up areas, Edinburgh has “something to offer every runner”, argues Bruce.
It was precisely that blend of urban and nature trails in close vicinity that spurred my own relationship with running. Prior to my first stint living in the city in 2007, I had always viewed running as something of a monotonous, necessary evil. It was one of the few easy ways I could keep fit in and around journalism’s often erratic working hours. Only when I could it mix it up — by following a river path one day and a hill trail the next — did I really start to appreciate it.
Edinburgh is renowned for the seven steep hills within its city boundary. Edinburgh’s castle sits atop one. Another particularly famous summit is Arthur’s Seat, near the Scottish Parliament and the Palace of Holyroodhouse, King Charles III’s official residence when he visits Edinburgh. Fans of the recent Netflix adaptation of David Nicholls’ novel One Day will recognise it as the location where the two main characters go for a walk the morning after they meet.
Edinburgh dwellers each have their own favourite. The seven hills have even inspired a lung-busting annual race that involves running up them all and plotting what you think will be the fastest route in between.
Of course, no matter how enthusiastic I am about running in Edinburgh, it admittedly requires a certain hardiness. The joke goes that there are two seasons in Scotland: June and winter. But pack layers, including a decent waterproof running jacket, and routes in and around the city can still be strong contenders for among the best in the world.
Below are three of my favourite routes that take in some of Edinburgh’s best-known landmarks — and a few lesser-known treasures.
New Town and the Water of Leith (8km)
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Good for: Combining tourist sites with a peaceful riverside route
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Not so good for: Avoiding the temptation to pause for photos, whether it is of handsome Georgian townhouses or a well depicting the Greek goddess of health Hygeia. Part of the route can also flood during heavy rainfall
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FYI: This route passes through Stockbridge, a popular neighbourhood full of independent cafés and boutiques. Patisserie Florentin is a particular favourite for coffee and pastry. Art lovers could also make a stop at the National Galleries of Scotland’s Modern One and Two spaces en route.
Like most large cities, there is a north-south divide in Edinburgh. I have friends who rarely venture beyond the neoclassical New Town. Despite its name, this was built from the late 18th century as a salve to the — at the time — overcrowded Old Town, which has the Royal Mile at its heart.
Neglecting either the north or south of the city is a mistake. It risks missing out on charming neighbourhoods such as Stockbridge in the north or Bruntsfield or Marchmont to the south.
This northern Edinburgh route starts in St Andrew Square, located in the east of the New Town. It navigates north, downhill to Stockbridge, where runners can join a walkway along the Water of Leith. This peaceful river runs through the city from the Pentland Hills, south-west of Edinburgh. On this route, you can also see one of six Antony Gormley statues installed along the Water of Leith as part of the artist’s “6 Times” series. For the final part, run through Princes Street Gardens, which can get crowded in summer but offer an incredible view of Edinburgh Castle. This run is probably best done early in the morning to avoid big crowds.
Arthur’s Seat and Holyrood Park (from 5km)
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Good for: Stunning views
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Not so good for: Flat routes
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FYI: The obvious way to access Holyrood Park, where Arthur’s Seat is situated, is from the bottom of the Royal Mile. However, keen triathletes might be tempted to take a 20-minute bus ride from Edinburgh’s main shopping street, Princes Street, to the Royal Commonwealth swimming pool. Holyrood Park can also be accessed from here after doing lengths of the 50-metre facility. One of Edinburgh’s free Parkrun events is held in Holyrood Park every Saturday morning.
Arthur’s Seat and Holyrood Park are not to be missed. There are countless trails to choose from but for an easily navigable 5km run, follow the circular road around Arthur’s Seat. The only choice will be which direction to go in. Be warned: neither is easy and involves steep inclines. However, the views over the Firth of Forth — the estuary that divides Edinburgh and Fife — plus the descent are a very rich reward.
I like to tack on a slow slog up to the summit of Arthur’s Seat from opposite Dunsapie Loch. The final part is a hike rather than a run and can be extremely slippery in poor weather. Still, its beauty always catches me by surprise. During the summer, go early to avoid the crowds who congregate near the summit.
The Meadows and Blackford Hill (under 10km)
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Good for: Exploring parts of the city that would not be included on a tourist tour
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Not so good for: Bad knees
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FYI: The area around the Meadows is ideal for brunch and coffee. Favourite haunts include Detour Espresso, Argyle Place and Soderberg, but you will not struggle to find a decent brew
Visitors to Edinburgh during the international arts, comedy and books festivals in August will inevitably find themselves around The Meadows park at some stage. University and club runners also congregate here during the early evenings to do high-tempo laps (two laps is roughly 5km).
This route takes you along one of the park’s pathways that comes to life with cherry blossom in spring, before heading through some of south Edinburgh’s residential areas to Blackford Hill. I thought twice about sharing it publicly as it is truly one of my favourite places anywhere. It offers similarly stunning views to Arthur’s Seat – but even better, the view includes Arthur’s Seat. There is also a charming pond at the foot and the Royal Observatory at the top. I kept this route to under 10km, but it could be easily extended by exploring the various trails in and around Blackford Hill and the surrounding nature reserve known as the Hermitage of Braid.
The route back to the Meadows passes some great old Edinburgh pubs, in particular Leslie’s Bar on Ratcliffe Terrace, plus the Summerhall arts venue, which used to house the city’s veterinary school.
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