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This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to Edinburgh
Our theme for the Edinburgh International Festival this year is “Rituals That Unite Us”, and this has made me think about my own rituals, and what I take comfort in. As a performer, I am always taking trips for work and have found myself exploring new places while tracing similar routines — seeking out a good coffee or a quiet space in nature.
There is so much to discover in Edinburgh at any time of year, but those who have been in the summer will know the palpable buzz that the Edinburgh festivals bring to this already vibrant city. It is a privilege to be the director of the Edinburgh International Festival and to contribute to the feeling that electrifies the city.
My first ritual starts with coffee. Ante at the top of Leith Walk is a must-visit; you descend into their basement coffee shop, sit down and come out rejuvenated after a brew and an interesting pastry, such as a pear and frangipane tart. For later in the day, Spry wine bar is run by the same team and sits above the coffee shop — it has great wines and a beautiful seasonal menu. If you’re there in the winter, their Christmas mince pies are a real treat.
It’s fantastic to have such easy access to nature within the city, a trait that makes Edinburgh such a popular destination for visitors and residents alike. I love getting out and about for a breath of fresh air; Calton Hill offers unparalleled views, and the Royal Botanic Garden is a particular haven for me, especially at busy times. I go here to clear my head and then reward myself with a coffee from The East Gate Coffee Bar.
The path along the Water of Leith towards Dean Village is another special part of Edinburgh. Here you will find a village of colourful cottages — part of a community that dates back to the 12th century — frozen in time. There are no restaurants or typical tourist areas, so walking along the cobblestones just transports you to a different era. Once you’ve admired Dean Village, you can continue on for 10 minutes to the National Galleries of Scotland: Modern, or try and nab a mid-morning pastry from Lannan Bakery in nearby Stockbridge, a popular spot that’s worth the wait. If the cardamom bun is still in stock, I’d make sure to grab one.
We are lucky to have such a wealth of world-class venues in Edinburgh, which we fill with a huge variety of music, dance and theatre shows throughout August for the International Festival. The beautiful Queen’s Hall was a chapel before it became a performance venue, and the Festival Theatre is the largest performance area in Scotland. If you’re in Edinburgh during August, you could start your day with us at the Queen’s Hall at 11am for a recital by star French pianist Alexandre Kantorow, and finish your evening in the Festival Theatre experiencing the full wonder of an opera like Carmen, which I would say is the perfect show to bring a seasoned opera lover or a newcomer.
If you’re coming to the Festival Theatre for a show, a great spot for a pre-show dinner is Mother India Café on Infirmary Street. A bit of an institution, it has a comforting, convivial atmosphere and incredible food at great prices, and is just a two-minute walk away. If I am heading to the Usher Hall, I always make the time to get a dragon roll (or two) at Kanpai Sushi, whether I’m performing that night or not. It is also a two-minute walk from the hall itself and they have a great selection of hand rolls and nigiri.
Last year’s International Festival was the inaugural year of full music programming at The Hub, the International Festival’s home on the Royal Mile. The spire of The Hub — a former church — is actually the highest point in central Edinburgh and a beautiful example of Gothic Revival architecture. Making your way up towards The Hub, which sits right next to Edinburgh Castle, and taking in all the sights and sounds of the Royal Mile is such a classic Edinburgh experience — and I’m happy to say it is also my walk to work.
Touring can really make you crave the comforts of home. I love going to Kora by Tom Kitchin, just near Bruntsfield Links; in Scotland we’re so spoilt for incredible seafood, and the produce here and what he does with it is just magical.
Italian food is also a comfort to me. My father grew up in the area surrounding Pisa but left for Scotland when he was nine years old, and my mother is half-Scottish and half-Italian. I make sure to stop by Valvona & Crolla on Leith Walk, Scotland’s oldest delicatessen. Stepping inside immediately transports you to Italy, and you can buy little flourishes to elevate any meal. It is rituals like this — seeking out a little piece of home — that allow you to create comfort for yourself, wherever you go.
The Edinburgh International Festival runs from August 2 to 25; eif.co.uk
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