What’s on in Milan: FT Globetrotter’s month-by-month guide to 2024

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What a year it will be in Milan, Italy’s design and fashion capital. 2024 brings a host of exciting exhibitions: we’re in particular looking forward to celebrating decades of creative partnership between Giorgio Armani and Italian photographer Aldo Fallai, Triennale Milano’s spotlight on fashion photographer Juergen Teller and the Prada Foundation’s multimedia retrospective of the work of artist and filmmaker Miranda July. On the sporting front, the Milan-San Remo race will kick off what’s set to be a thrilling cycling season and bring some of the world’s best riders to town, while our eyes will certainly be on Formula 1’s Italian Grand Prix, Ferrari’s home race, which is set to be particularly lively for Britain’s Lewis Hamilton: he announced in February that he’ll be joining the stable next year.

On now

Art

‘Paraventi: Folding Screens from the 17th to 21st Centuries’, Fondazione Prada

A deep dive into the beauty and significance of folding screens across cultures east and west. In this display of more than 70 pieces, curator Nicholas Cullinan probes their functionality: “Painting or sculpture?” he asks. “Utilitarian or ornamental?” Until February 22; further information and tickets here

‘Rodin and Dance’, MUDEC (Museo delle Culture)

Curated in tandem with the Musée Rodin in Paris, this show looks at the influence that dance had on the sculptor’s work. There are more than 50 pieces on display, including 15 statuettes of dancers seen in Italy for the first time. Until March 10; further information and tickets here

Goya: The Rebellion of Reason’, Palazzo Reale

Goya lived through an age of great upheaval. This collection examines the evolution of his art, his depictions of social turbulence and how he turned painting itself into a revolutionary act. Until March 3; further information and tickets here

‘Aldi Fallai per Giorgio Armani, 1977-2021’, Armani/Silos

A love letter to nearly 30 years of uninterrupted creative dialogue between Giorgio Armani, and the Italian photographer Aldo Fallai, through his photographs of Armani’s creations. As Armani puts it: “Working with Aldo allowed me from the very beginning to transform the vision I had in my mind into real images.” Until August 11; further information and tickets here

‘Juergen Teller: I Need to Live’, Triennale Milano

Take in more than 1,000 works by Juergen Teller, the German photographer best known for his candid celebrity portraits and fashion and design work. Including both personal and commissioned photographs, the exhibition celebrates Teller’s joyful and dynamic character. Until April 1; further information and tickets here

‘Sculture nella Città 1971—2024’ (Sculpture in the City, 1971—2024), Fondazione Arnaldo Pomodoro

An examination of the intersection and relationship between art and public spaces, specifically looking at Arnaldo Pomodoro’s public fibreglass sculpture “Sfera grande (1966-67) and what it can tell us about the climate of urban art. Until May 5; further information and tickets here

Sport

Serie A Football

Serie A is Italy’s top football league and one of the most famous in the world. Catch the home games of the stellar local teams Inter Milan and AC Milan. Until May 26; further information and tickets here for AC Milan, and here for Inter Milan


February

Art

‘Picasso: Metamorphosis of the Figure’, MUDEC

A show that puts more than 40 pieces by Picasso in conversation with the African art and work from other cultures that influenced him, in particular for his study of Les Desmoiselles d’Avignon. With borrowings from major European museums, the exhibition ends with a look at the African artists who were in turn inspired by Picasso. February 22 to June 30; further information and tickets here

‘Martin Parr: Short & Sweet’, MUDEC

More than 200 works from the artist who has captured everyday British life and culture through photo-reportage — and whose style has been much imitated. February 10 to June 30; further information and tickets here

‘Chiara Camoni: Call and Gather’, Fondazione Pirelli HangarBicocca

Inspired by objects from the domestic sphere as well as natural materials that she incorporates into her practice, Chiara Camoni explores the relationship between memory and collectivity, often working collaboratively with friends and relatives, via ceramics, sculpture, drawings, prints and video. This is the largest exhibition dedicated to the Italian artist. February 15 to July 11; further information and tickets here

Performance

‘Tribute to Morricone’, Teatro Arcimboldi Milano

A 40-piece orchestra will accompany 100 choristers for an evening of symphonic time travel through the cinematic maestro’s career, from his Hollywood scores to famed collaborations with Sergio Leone. February 26; further information and tickets here

Event

Milan Fashion Week

As much a sartorial mecca as a financial hub, Milan welcomes the world’s most fashionable twice a year. The autumn/winter 2024—25 season will be previewed with shows, talks, parties and more. February 20 to 26; further information here

Festival

Carnevale Ambrosiano

The annual carnival in honour of the city’s patron saint is a colourful affair with masquerade balls, a parade and ample helpings of chiacchiere, the sugar-dusted fried strips of dough that are a staple of pre-Lent festivities. Head to the Duomo in the early evening to soak up the atmosphere and catch the finale on Shrove Saturday. February 13 to 17; further information here


March

Art

‘La negazione della forma: Arnaldo Pomodoro tra minimalismo e controcultura’ (The Denial of Form: Arnaldo Pomodoro between Minimalism and Counterculture), Fondazione Arnaldo Pomodoro

An overview of Pomodoro’s work from 1966—70, a prolific period of Minimalist-inspired experimentation and forays into the counterculture for the Italian sculptor. March 12 to May 19; further information and tickets here

‘Adrian Piper: Race Traitor’, Padiglione d’Arte Contemporanea

The first European retrospective of the US conceptual artist, with works loaned from leading art museums. Over her long career, Piper has raised questions of politics, race and identity, working across performance, painting and sculpture. March 19 to June 9; further information and tickets here

‘Tattoo: Tales from the Mediterranean’, MUDEC

From Paleolithic cave paintings to the epidermic etchings of Coptic Kurdish women in Syrian refugee camps, this exhibition charts the history and phenomenon of the tattoo in Mediterranean culture. March 28 to July 28; further information and tickets here

‘Nari Ward’, Pirelli HangarBicocca

The New-York based Jamaican artist is renowned for his installations composed of repurposed materials that address questions of identity, race, social justice and consumer culture. This retrospective includes both performative and collaborative work with a particular focus on video, sound and sculpture. March 28 to July 28; further information and tickets here

‘Miranda July: New Society’, Prada Foundation Observatory

A retrospective of the work of artist and filmmaker Miranda July that spans her 30-year career, from performance pieces such as Love Diamond (1998—2000) and Things We Don’t Understand and Definitely Are Not Going to Talk About (2006—07) to a new work called F.A.M.I.L.Y. (Falling Apart Meanwhile I Love You) — a multichannel video installation that is the result of a one-year collaboration between July and seven performers on Instagram. The exhibition is accompanied by screenings of July’s filmography. March 7 to October 14; further information and tickets here

Performance

‘Madina’, Teatro alla Scala

Mixing dance and theatre, choreographer Mauro Bigonzetti’s latest work is about a young girl who, at the last minute, backs out of carrying out a suicide-terrorist attack, and is put on trial. It is a story of “ancestral impulses, symbolic places and the perverse dynamics of self-destructive violence”. February 28 to March 9; further information and tickets here

‘Perfetti sconosciuti’ (Perfect Strangers), Teatro Manzoni

The Italian director and screenwriter Paolo Genovese’s first work for the stage is a comic yet heartbreaking tale of betrayal, loss and love, following four couples who, in an attempt to know each other better, realise they don’t know each other at all. March 12 to 24; further information and tickets here

‘Jean Paul Gaultier Fashion Freak Show’, Teatro Arcimboldi Milano

This London hit lands in Milan. Actors, singers, dancers and circus artists tell the story of the French fashion designer’s life and work in a climate of political and cultural change. March 7 to 24; further information and tickets here

Sport

Milan-San Remo cycle race

The annual road cycling race that covers the 298km distance between the cities of Milan and San Remo in the north-west of Italy. Known as La Classicissima in Italian, it is the first classic of the season and one of the most prestigious races in road cycling. The flat landscape makes it a showcase of the world’s best sprinters. March 19; further information here

Stramilano

An annual multi-length race for runners of all abilities in which the piazza in front of the Duomo transforms into a sea of bobbing heads and neon Lycra. March 24; further information here


April

Art

Miart, Allianz MiCo

This year’s theme for the modern art fair is “No Time, No Space”lyrics from a song by the late Franco Battiato — an expression of the fair’s desire to expand its borders “temporally and geographically”. Works are divided into Established, Emergent and Portal, a new section that aims to “scramble timelines”. April 12 to 14; further information and tickets here

MIA Photo Fair, Allianz MiCo

This year’s fair surveys photographic art through the lens of “Changing”, with a collection of images that explore ideas about change in the environmental, cultural and technological spheres. April 11 to 14; further information and tickets here

Salone del Mobile Milano, Fiera Milano

The annual furniture and design fair showcasing the best of contemporary interiors over a jam-packed week dedicated to design. April 16 to 21; further information and tickets here

‘I Am a Dragon: The True Story of Alessandro Mendini’, Triennale Milano         

Triennale Milano and Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporain are collaborating to present an ambitious retrospective on the life and work of Italian architect, designer, artist and theorist Alessandro Mendini, a visionary who revolutionised thinking and lifestyle in the past century. April to September; further information and tickets here

Performance

‘Gala Fracci’, Teatro alla Scala

The Scala Ballet’s tribute to the late Italian prima ballerina Carla Fracci. This year’s programme includes excerpts from Nureyev’s Swan Lake, La Sylphide and Maurice Béjart’s La Luna, as well as newer pieces beyond the company’s traditional repertoire. April 19; further information and tickets here

‘Fiori d’acciaio’ (Steel Magnolias), Teatro Manzoni

An Italian-language stage adaptation of the 1989 weepy, starring Barbara De Rossi and Martina Colombari, co-directed Massimiliano Vado and Michela Andreozzi. April 2 to 14; further information and tickets here


May

Festivals

Piano City Milano

The streets are alive with the sound of ivories being tinkled at this perennially popular festival, which last year featured 260 free recitals and concerts, veering from classical and pop to jazz and electronica, by more than 300 pianists in 140 locations across Milan. Bookings recommended for some events due to space restrictions. May 17 to 19; further information here

I-Days Festival, Snai San Siro and La Maura racecourses

This annual music festival spread over several weeks draws outstanding international talent. The 2024 line-up includes Metallica (May 29), Lana del Rey (June 4), Green Day and Doja Cat (both June 16). May 29 to July 12; further information and tickets here

‘La Bayadère’, Teatro alla Scala

Rudolf Nureyev’s version of Marius Petipa’s ballet returns to the Scala after its last stint here in 2021, in a production the company calls “sumptuous”. May 26 to June 21; further information and tickets here


June

Art

‘Liliana Moro’, Padiglione d’Arte Contemporanea

Delve into the work of Milanese artist Liliana Moro, who has been working across various mediums since the late 1980s, most recently experimenting with sound. June 25 to September 22 further information and tickets here

Events

Milano Pride Parade

A 200,000-strong crowd fills the streets for the Saturday parade at the end of a week of LGBTQ+ parties and events, including Pride Square in Porta Venezia. It usually sets off from Central Station at 4pm, winding its way to the Arco della Pace. The after-parties are legendary. Parade, June 29; further information here

‘Milano Monza Open-Air Motor Show 2024’, Autrodromo Nazionale Monza and Duomo

Three days dedicated to all things automotive, with parades, exhibitions and a chance to see the latest models. Book test drives or just fawn over the best cars around. Free entry. June 28 to 30; further information and tickets here


July

Performance

‘L’Histoire de Manon’, Teatro alla Scala

Kenneth MacMillan’s 1974 balletic adaptation of Abbé Prévost’s 18th-century novel Manon Lescaut, which explores the allure of wealth and the nature of desire. July 8 to 18; further information and tickets here

Sport

World Kendo Championships, Mediolanum Forum

The very best in this Japanese martial art fought with bamboo swords will battle it out in Milan this summer, after previous championships in Incheon and Tokyo. July 4 to 7; further information and tickets here


August

Sport

Italian Grand Prix 2024, Autodromo Nazionale Monza

The second Italian race on the Formula 1 calendar — and Ferrari’s homecoming — features a weekend of speed culminating in the 53-lap decider on Sunday. Red Bull’s Max Verstappen will be defending his title, though all eyes will be on the drivers in red — and Britain’s Lewis Hamilton, who surprised the racing world in February when news leaked that he would be joining La Scuderia for the 2025 season. August 30 to September 1; further information and tickets here


September

Art

‘Saodat Ismailova’, Pirelli HangarBicocca

A look at the Uzbek filmmaker’s treatment of collective memory, spirituality, heritage, and climate, and how she harnesses myths and her own dreams to tackle issues such as women’s emanci­pation and colonialism. September 12 to January 12 2025; further information and tickets here

Event

Milan Fashion Week

The autumn outing for the world’s most stylish, looking ahead to spring/summer 2025 with shows, parties, talks and more. September 17 to 23; further information here


October

Art

‘Jean Tinguely’, Pirelli HangarBicocca

Swiss sculptor Jean Tinguely used gears and engineering to create a fusion between art and mechanisation. This will be the most extensive retrospective to date of the artist’s kinetic work. October 10 to February 2 2025; further information and tickets here

‘Ugo Mulas: The Photographic Operation’, Palazzo Reale

With more than 300 images, this exhibition underscores the Italian artist’s interest in the “totality” of photography and his experiences across the arts — from his friendships with Marcel Duchamp and Lucio Fontana to his connections with the worlds of theatre and literature. October 3 to January 26 2025; further information and tickets here

Festivals

JazzMi

With more than 100 concerts, this citywide festival celebrates jazz’s history while highlighting the best emerging talent in today’s scene. October 12 to November 5; further information here soon


November

Art

‘Marcello Maloberti’, Padiglione d’Arte Contemporanea

Visual artist Marcello Maloberti’s “declaration of love” to Milan. The exhibition will encourage visitors to move between and make connections across the museum’s indoor and outdoor spaces. November 26 to February 9 2025; further information and tickets here

Festivals

BookCity Milano

This annual Milan book festival is dotted across the city, with events ranging from readings, to talks, opportunities to meet authors, and a host of exhibitions. November 11 to 17; further information and tickets here soon

Milano Music Week

For one week in November, the city will act as a stage for Italian and international acts and artists. Expect concerts, talks, DJ sets and workshops. Dates to be announced; further information here soon

Film Fest International

The Milan outpost of this pan-city film festival, with an inspiring programme of screenings, workshops and social events. Dates to be announced; further information here soon


December

Festival

The Feast of St Ambrose

At the festival marking the patron saint of Milan’s consecration as bishop, locals lay offerings at the Basilica of St Ambrose, visit the Oh Bej! Oh Bej! market and feast on traditional fare, including Ambrosiani biscuits. The event also marks the opening of La Scala’s new season, with a fresh programme of operas, ballets, music and drama that will be announced later in the year. December 7; further information here

Performance

Christmas concert, Teatro alla Scala

Thought this year’s performance has not yet been confirmed, the opera house will be in full festive mode. Dates to be announced; further information here soon

This is by no means an exhaustive list. Please tell us in the comments below about any other 2024 calendar highlights for Milan that other readers might like to know about

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